Pilot will not stay lit
The classic gas-water-heater call. Thermocouple is failing — $15 part, 20-minute fix.
Gas water heaters heat with a burner, a pilot, and a vent — they cost less to run than electric but add combustion safety to the service checklist. This page covers what gas water heater service in Clermont includes, why pilot and thermocouple calls dominate the dispatch line, and what the pro visit looks like.
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Gas water heater service covers installation, repair, and routine maintenance for tank and tankless units that heat with natural gas or propane. A gas water heater uses a burner at the bottom of the tank, a pilot or electronic igniter to light the burner, a thermocouple or flame sensor to prove the flame, a gas valve to control flow, and a vent to carry combustion gases outside. Service on these units is different from service on electric units because every diagnostic chain involves combustion safety — gas pressure, venting category, combustion air, and carbon monoxide.
The most common service calls on gas tank water heaters are pilot-related: the pilot will not light, will not stay lit, or flickers. The thermocouple — a small device that generates millivolts when heated by the pilot and proves to the gas valve that the flame is on — is the failure point. It is a $15 part, installed in 20 minutes, and accounts for the largest share of gas water heater repair calls in Clermont.
On gas tankless units, the most common service call is a descale flush — same as electric tankless — followed by igniter and flame-rod replacements. The combustion safety chain on a tankless is more complex (forced-draft blower, sealed combustion, condensate drain) but the failure patterns are similar to tank units: gas pressure, ignition, and flame-proving dominate.
A gas water heater diagnostic visit starts with the combustion safety chain. The technician confirms the gas valve is in the off position, that there is no smell of gas at the unit, and that a CO detector near the unit has not alarmed. Only after these checks does the burner assembly get touched.
Step two is the pilot and thermocouple diagnostic. The technician lights the pilot per the procedure printed on the side of the tank (or attempts to, if the pilot is out), holds the button for 30 seconds, releases, and observes whether the pilot stays lit. If it does not, the thermocouple is suspect. The technician pulls the thermocouple, tests it with a millivolt meter (a healthy thermocouple produces 18 to 30 millivolts when heated), and either cleans or replaces it. If the pilot lights but the burner will not, the gas valve or the burner orifice is suspect.
Step three is the burner examination. The technician fires the burner and examines the flame. A healthy gas flame is steady blue with defined inner cones. A lazy yellow flame means combustion air is insufficient, the burner orifice is partially blocked, or gas pressure is off. A combustion analyzer confirms whether the unit is producing carbon monoxide within safe limits. This step is the difference between a competent gas technician and a parts-swap technician — do not skip it.
Step four is venting inspection. Atmospheric-vent gas tanks use a B-vent (double-wall) chimney that runs from the unit through the roof. Power-vent units use a fan to push combustion gases out through a Category III stainless side-wall vent. The technician confirms the vent is properly pitched, that there are no holes or leaks, and that the vent is not shared with another appliance in a way that violates code. Venting failures are dangerous because they can dump carbon monoxide into the living space.
Step five is gas-pressure confirmation. At the inlet to the gas valve, the technician measures gas pressure with a manometer. Natural gas should be around 3.5 to 7 inches of water column at the unit; propane around 10 to 13 inches. Low gas pressure causes weak flame and slow recovery; high gas pressure causes soot and CO. The gas utility is responsible for pressure at the meter; the technician is responsible for confirming it is correct at the unit.
Most homeowners wait too long because the early signs are easy to dismiss. Here is the full set, ranked roughly by urgency.
The classic gas-water-heater call. Thermocouple is failing — $15 part, 20-minute fix.
Relight per the procedure on the side of the tank. If it will not stay lit, call.
Combustion air or gas pressure is off. Could be producing CO — treat as urgent.
Leave the house. Call your gas utility. Not a service call — a safety call.
Evacuate. Call 911. Then call us for the repair follow-up.
Combustion is running rich. Stop using the unit and call.
Burner orifice may be partially blocked. A service call restores normal recovery.
Shared vent or combustion-air issue. The two appliances are competing for air.
Thermocouple wear is the single most common cause of gas water heater service calls in Clermont. The thermocouple sits in the pilot flame and slowly degrades over years of continuous heating. As its millivolt output drops below the threshold that holds the gas valve open, the pilot goes out — first intermittently, then permanently. Central Florida's humid air does not accelerate thermocouple wear specifically, but the long hot-water-heating season (April through October, every day) means the pilot runs more hours per year than in northern climates.
The second cause is sediment in the tank bottom. The same sediment problem that affects electric tanks affects gas tanks differently — on a gas unit, sediment sits between the burner flame and the water it is supposed to heat. The burner runs longer, the bottom of the tank runs hotter, and a rumbling or popping sound develops as water trapped under the sediment boils. The sediment also accelerates tank corrosion, which is why gas tanks in Clermont rarely outlast their electric counterparts in the same neighborhood.
The third cause is combustion-air or venting failure. A gas water heater needs a specific volume of combustion air and a properly pitched vent. If the unit was installed in a tight closet without adequate combustion air, or if the vent was improperly pitched or shared, the safety switches trip and the unit shuts down. These are installation issues that show up as service calls years later.
The fourth cause is gas-pressure issues at the meter. The gas utility is responsible for pressure at the meter; the technician is responsible for confirming it at the unit. If pressure is low, the burner runs weak and recovery time stretches. If pressure is high, the burner runs rich, produces soot, and may produce carbon monoxide. A manometer check confirms the cause in five minutes.
Three DIY checks before calling. First, look at the pilot assembly through the sight glass at the bottom of the tank. If the pilot is out, attempt to relight it per the procedure printed on the side of the tank. If it relights and stays lit, the issue was transient — possibly a draft or a momentary gas pressure drop. If it relights but will not stay lit after 30 seconds of holding the button, stop — the thermocouple is failing and that is a service call.
Second, while the pilot is lit, look at the burner flame through the same sight glass. The flame should be steady blue with defined inner cones. If the flame is yellow, lazy, or rolling, combustion is off — could be combustion air, gas pressure, or a partially blocked orifice. Stop using the unit and call. A yellow flame can produce carbon monoxide, and a CO detector near the unit is the right preventive investment.
Third, check the area around the unit for any smell of gas. If you smell gas, do not touch any light switch — leave the house and call your gas utility from outside. The gas utility will confirm whether the leak is at the water heater, at the meter, or somewhere else. None of these DIY checks involves opening the unit or using a tool on the gas line. Anything beyond them is a service call — and a combustion-analyzer check is the difference between a competent gas technician and a parts-swap technician.
Pro tip
If you are not comfortable with any of the steps below, skip them and call. The dispatcher will not penalize you for skipping a DIY check — that is what the technician is for.
Step one: the technician confirms the unit is safe to approach — no gas smell, no CO alarm, gas valve in the off position. They will ask when the pilot went out, whether it has been intermittent, and whether anything else in the house runs on gas. Step two is the pilot and thermocouple diagnostic. The technician lights the pilot, holds the button, releases, and observes whether the pilot stays lit. If not, the thermocouple is suspect.
Step three is the thermocouple test and replacement. The technician pulls the thermocouple from the burner assembly, tests it with a millivolt meter, and either cleans or replaces it. A replacement thermocouple is universal and stocked on every gas-service truck — the part is $15 and the install takes 20 minutes. Step four is the burner examination. The technician fires the burner and examines the flame. A steady blue flame with defined inner cones is healthy; a lazy yellow flame triggers a combustion-analyzer check for carbon monoxide.
Step five is venting and gas-pressure inspection. The technician confirms the vent is properly pitched, that there are no holes or leaks, and that gas pressure at the inlet meets the manufacturer's spec. Step six is verification. The technician cycles the burner — fires it, confirms it stays lit through a complete heating cycle, and confirms the tank reaches setpoint and the burner cuts off cleanly. The visit ends with a walkthrough of what was wrong, what was done, and what to watch for going forward.
Five variables drive almost every quote. Knowing them in advance makes the price transparent and removes the most common upsell pressure.
| Cost factor | What it means | How it moves the price |
|---|---|---|
| Thermocouple vs other parts | The thermocouple is the most common and cheapest part; gas valves and burners are pricier. | Thermocouple replacement is a small, fast repair; gas valve replacement is a bigger quote. |
| Venting category | Atmospheric-vent uses B-vent; power-vent uses Category III stainless side-wall vent. | Venting upgrades or repairs add to the quote when the existing vent is non-compliant. |
| Combustion air | Tight closets may need a combustion-air louver or grille added. | Air-supply upgrades are code items, not optional add-ons. |
| Gas line size | A larger gas tankless may require a larger gas line than the existing tank had. | Retrofits from tank to tankless often need a gas-line upgrade — add a line item. |
| Unit age | Gas tanks typically last 10 to 13 years in Central Florida. | Repair on an older tank may exceed half the cost of replacement. |
A gas water heater call becomes an emergency in two situations. The first is a suspected gas leak or CO concern. If you smell gas near the unit, leave the house and call your gas utility from outside. If a CO detector near the unit is alarming, evacuate and call 911. These are safety calls first — the water heater service is a follow-up after the safety issue is resolved.
The second is no hot water in a household that cannot wait — infant, elderly, medical. Most gas water heater failures (thermocouple, pilot, gas valve) are diagnosable and repairable same-visit when the part is stocked, so a same-day dispatch usually restores hot water that afternoon. If the failure is the tank itself (a leak at the bottom seam), the call becomes an emergency replacement rather than an emergency repair, and the same-day question is whether a stock tank fits the space.
If you smell gas, leave first
If you smell gas near the heater, leave the house and call your gas utility before calling us. Do not turn on or off any light switch on your way out.
Follow the procedure printed on a label on the side of the tank — usually: turn the gas valve to "pilot," push and hold the button, light the pilot with the built-in sparker or a long match, hold for 30 seconds, release, and turn the valve to "on." If the pilot will not stay lit after the release, the thermocouple is failing and that is a service call.
Combustion is running rich — insufficient combustion air, low gas pressure, or a partially blocked burner orifice. A yellow flame can produce carbon monoxide. Stop using the unit and call. A CO detector near the unit is the right preventive investment.
Typically 10 to 13 years — slightly less than electric tanks in the same neighborhood, because sediment at the bottom of a gas tank runs the burner hotter and accelerates corrosion. Annual maintenance (sediment flush, anode check) pushes the number toward the upper end.
Usually yes — natural gas per BTU is cheaper than electricity per BTU in most of Central Florida. The trade-off is the combustion safety chain (venting, combustion air, CO monitoring) and a slightly shorter lifespan. The technician can compare operating costs during the visit.
A thermocouple is a small device that sits in the pilot flame and generates millivolts to prove to the gas valve that the flame is on. It slowly degrades over years of continuous heating. As output drops below the threshold that holds the gas valve open, the pilot goes out — first intermittently, then permanently. Replacement is a $15 part and a 20-minute install.
Yes — the gas valve and the burner orifice need to be converted with a manufacturer-specific kit. Most units ship as natural gas with a propane conversion kit in the box. The conversion is a 30-minute job for a technician. Never attempt this without the manufacturer's kit — the orifice sizes are different.
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